Sandpiper in Glenarm - Photo by Author
We arrived at Glenarm Harbour at about 6.30pm Sunday 5th September, the entrance was straight forward with little to worry about other than an abundance of pots, fish farm and 4 other boats Jockeying for position. This was to be our last port in Northern Ireland and it did not disappoint. The following day we walked to the Glenarm Castle, the castle itself is the home of Viscount and Viscountess Dunluce and I believe they do open their doors a couple of times a year but sadly not this week. However, the grounds are open to the public all year round and they have a great tearoom, local craft and other produce shops. The walled gardens were out of this world with many tropical plants and an enormous potting shed. We spent hours in the garden, although Gary thinks I spent most of this time looking through the lens on my phone but I am so keen to capture the beauty of the land for our memories. Memories fade without photographs. I often want to hold a memory still when I think of those who I love who have gone to rainbow bridge or heaven and sadly I can not keep the image still enough in my mind to marvel at the past. So with this in mind I take photos to capture the moments forever and hopefully I am forgiven for having the phone out A LOT!
Blooms Galore at Glenarm Castle - Photo by Author
Often I seem to take photos of open doors and the potting shed in this garden was no exception. For me, open door symbolize new beginnings, new horizons, adventure, progress and an opportunity to move forward in life. Some how the open door gives me mindful motivation to be brave and step into the unknown, so fitting for this chapter of my life.
Potting Shed at Glenarm Walled Garden - Photo by Author
On route back from the castle,we noticed the town pub was cash only, strange as we are in times when everyone asks for card payments. No cash in our pockets and running low on wine we now knew we must locate an ATM and a shop for supplies. Search we did but no ATM to be found and the only town shop sold very very limited supplies, just bread, eggs, milk and you guessed it ice-cream! I do not know what it is about Ireland but there are so many ice-cream shops and they all have a queue. The lovely Harbour Master, Billy, told us that the nearest ATM and off licence was Carne Lough about a 3 mile walk so we hot footed it back to the boat to acquire the footwear for the walk. We had no sooner crossed the carpark at the marina and Billy drew up in his 4X4 and shouted want a lift. Of course we took him up on his very kind offer and went the 3 miles in his vehicle. Billy was a wise man and had much to share about the area and the people, he seemed to know many locals and told us to have a meal in the pub in Carne Lough and be sure to tell the landlord Paddy that he had sent us. Dropping this connection would secure us a lift back Billy thought. No, we thought, that was just too cheeky so we asked the bus driver at harbour stop what was the last bus back to Glenarm, 6.25pm he told us. A group of lads standing in ear shot told us that the buses were not that reliable and be at the stop early just in case. Good advice.
We went to the Spar for supplies and armed ourselves with some nice fresh food but they had no wine. Essential, sailor supplies! The cashier kindly pointed us to the off licence which was attached to the pub, this seems to be how things are in Ireland. The off licence was at the back of the pub, the very pub Billy had told us to eat at. The cashier in the Off Licence heard our story and immediately took us through the back and into the saloon of the pub, where we enjoyed a meal and yes the landlord did take us back to the marina. Such generosity from the locals, and they would not take a penny. Billy took us back to Carne Lough later in the week for fuel, another grand gesture of kindness. Carne Lough was another picturesque place and one where we believe some of The Game of Thrones was filmed.
Carne Lough - Photo by Author
This little place was an absolute delight and not to missed if you are sailing this part of the country. We left Glenarm at 4am on Thursday 9th September for Gigha in Scotland. It was pitch black in darkness, but dry and not too chilly. I headed for the bow to sit clipped on and watch for pots, I didn’t see one which is amazing as there were loads. Gary believes it was his great helmsman-ship and his Jedi mind tricks, have to give him this one as I saw nothing. It is easy to get disoriented in the dark but all was good and at 6am we took a call from MC our dear cruising friend, who was also leaving Fort William at an ungodly hour. There is not many people you can have a conversation with at sunrise, it was comforting to know she was there and wishing us a safe passage.
Mull of Kintyre - Photo by Author
Almost from the start of this passage we could see the lighthouse at the Mull of Kintyre and passing the over falls there almost seemed too easy. To be honest, as dawn broke and the Mull could be seen in the distance I found myself reflecting upon all the pilot guide warnings for the area and non of them spelt out easy sailing. I knew with careful weather and tide preparation this passage was going to be ok but I also knew some of the tidal gates around Scotland have an infamous reputation- most notably the Mull of Kintyre and Gulf of Corryvreckan, which at peak flow can exceed ten knots. It was very important to ensure that the direction of both wind and tide was the same. With 18 knots of wind we approached the Mull of Kintyre with the perfect state of tide and guess what? A song came to mind, well you can not pass an opportunity up like that and I sang my heart out, after all who could hear me! I watched the sea rise and fall, a similar view to that of going over the shelf in the Atlantic when we sailed to Spain in 2018, although there was no land in sight on that occasion. The passing of the Mull of Kintyre was uneventful although the Mull looked bleak and the grey sky created a somber and mysterious atmosphere over the rocky west cliffs.
We approached Gigha at 11.30am just as Gary had estimated the day before. Gigha is stunning and the pictures don’t do it justice. The gardens were not as pretty as Glenarm but still worth a look.
Ardminish Gardens - Photo by Author
We ate at the Boathouse on the first evening and the fish was so fresh, in fact someone ordered lobster and the chef went to the pier to get it. NOW that is Fresh!!! Small world, as we met some guys who we had seen racing in Bangor NI some weeks before. We got chatting to them in the Boathouse Restaurant and met them again the following day whilst exploring the Island. John, the skipper invited us to play cards with them, great fun and the guys also knew how to keep the drink flowing but then again what sailor doesn't! I was lucky and kept my own name on the score card whilst the other went by the names of Sandpiper, Sticker, Warden, Boat show and Moat. Their stories were hilarious and the banter really lifted our spirits on a day that had turned quite grey and miserable. John's boat is called The Final Call, we had heard so much about this skipper and the generous hand he played in getting Tim Long, our friend, access to the RUYC when he was in Bangor during Covid restrictions. It was a pleasure to meet John and his crew, such great guys who in the short time we spent together, demonstrated fantastic camaraderie and team spirit. Good luck for next seasons racing guys and we hope to meet again!
Sandpiper swinging on a visitors mooring in Gigha - Photo by Gary Moxon
We left Gigha on Monday 15th September for Craighouse on Jura, the most amazing place for spotting wildlife and I look forward to sharing next time.
Until then take care and keep smiling xx
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