We have lived on the Isle of Kerrera for a couple of week now and it is truly a very special place. Kerrera has been described by the Scottish tourist board as “a jewel in the Firth of Lorne” and to be honest I think they under estimated its worth. This place is the crown jewels and a walkers paradise.
The landscape is so picturesque, yet rugged and raw. Some hills roll along the sky line and others have flat tops just like the Dutch Hat on the Treshnish Isles.
Every hill is covered in thick bracken and leads you to a jagged shore line or a pebble bay.
Quite simply this place just draws you in, wraps itself around you and gives you a big hug. The colours of autumn are rich and warm and right now we seem to experience all the seasons in one day. As they say in Scotland, if you don't like the weather give it 10 minutes and it will change.
I have so much to share with you about this part of my adventure so I will share this weeks highlights and describe the island landscape.
Starting with this jewel in the crown, the diamond in the rough, a castle!!! It stands proud on the hill side surrounded by rocky stacks, looking out over the blue seas. Gylen Castle was built in 1582 by Duncan MacDougall, but was captured and burnt by a Covenanter army, led by General David Leslie, in 1647. Now roofless yet majestic and certainly worth the walk to see. I have photographed it from every angle and I think I will be doing this all winter long. Take a look for yourself.
Whilst walking to the castle I noticed many signs being erected for a weekend event. Craggy Island Triathlon takes place every year and it is really well attended by many triathlon enthusiasts. The event is a short swim from pier to pier followed by a bike and run race to the Castle and back. I am not too familiar with this type of event but it looked challenging, very hilly and difficult terrain to walk never mind bike and run!, Rather them than me!
The little girl in the photos below melted my heart, she stood in the pouring rain high fiving the runners as they passed Balliemore Farm Shop. Adorable!
Walking the hills in the evening sun has also been such a treat. These were taken by the disused fish farm and surrounding hillside. I even had a glass of red by Hutchinson Monument whilst watching the sun go down.
There is evidence of military buildings around this area too which I believe are the hang over from the air base here during the second world war. A fabulous model plan hangs high over Kerrera Marina Waypoint Bar to commemorate the air landing strip.
The island is only 4 miles long and 1.5 miles wide with a population of 57 people. This month the islanders will celebrate and rejoice as they will no longer have to travel boggy land over hills and rocks to access the only public slip in the centre of the island. Finally after thirty years of campaigning they now have a direct and robust forest track connecting the community in the north of Kerrera to the central slipway. Can you imagine the logistical nightmare of getting back and forth from the public slip to your north island home with no road? My hat goes off to these hardy people.
Cal Mac operate a very small ferry from this slip and this is the islanders access to shops, fuel, banking, post office, health services, schools and many other essential facilities. This is a foot passenger service only unless you are a islander and that makes it a lovely place to walk as it is almost traffic free.
With no car ourselves we are thankful that we have a private foot passenger ferry service from the marina directly into Oban. Dirk the marina ferry is a real life saver for us as even with the new road our shoe leather would be wearing a bit thin walking back and forth to the Cal Mac Ferry especially with 2 weeks worth of groceries!
Luckily we will never go hungry should the sea be too rough to cross as the island has 2 farm shops which are both quaint and really well stocked. Both operate honesty box policies and all the food is locally sourced selling tea, cake, honey, eggs, meat, biscuits, ice cream, wool hats, sheepskin rugs soap and scented candles.
There is also a Tea Garden close to the castle but sadly it closed for the season just as we arrived for our winter stay. The teapot signs made me smile though.
We are glad to report that we are both settling in nicely to the island life and I look forward to showing you around the marina next blog and telling you about my apprenticeship as a Farmers Assistant.
Until the next time stay happy and safe xxx
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