Living our unscripted life is a sweet balancing act of living in the moment and planning what next.
Photo by MC
The Small Isles of Muck, Eigg, Rum and Canna really got me thinking about the nomadic lifestyle we have chosen. One where we sail, work remotely whilst travelling the world. Ok I haven't left the UK yet but who cares. The residents on these islands, of which there are very few, have also chosen a lifestyle of difference.
Muck the smallest of the four Small Isles and a real gem. The land is fertile and well maintained with only 40 resident's. It is owned by the MacEwan family and hosts a cafe, fish farm, honesty craft shed, and a family farm and guest lodge. We walked the length of the island and yes we found another white sand beach but this time it was home to several cows and one or two sheep. We went off the well trodden path to the cliff edge, passed the ancient grave stones, a resting place high in the hills and so romote. Not a recommended route, stay to the path as this is where two Turns dive bombed us and I ran for my life, screaming " Gary make them go away" like that was going to save me! Elegant bird, protecting its breeding ground. Lesson learnt!!!
Views of the anchorage - Photo by author
The atmosphere on this island is heartwarming with a smiling face on every corner. Mind you there are not many corners nor residents. The children were keen to talk, almost as if they were intrigued by our very existence. So sweet and confident they giggled and ran free on the island. Unprompted they told us of their fishing trips, kite flying whilst others said nothing but ran to get their bikes and paddle boards to show us their skills. All the Small Isles children go to boarding school in Oban so the children we saw were all under 10 and they certainly gave the place a real charm.
Muck beach - photo by author
Muck ramble - photo by author
Muck Cafe - photo by author
Sunrise in Muck Anchorage - photo by author
We sailed from Muck onto the Isle of Rum, now this place is different again. Very rugged and it has a definate hippy vibe. I really got into the groove here, it felt like home. It is quirky, with its well stocked shop that opens 5pm until 7pm, a cafe, campsite and an abandon castle. Most who live on Rum have several jobs and are employees of Nature Scotland. Kim from the cafe is also the venison butcher in the winter and lobster killer by day. Not her favourite job but needs must. The Bunk House and Campsite Manager also works in the shop and post office. The walks are tremendous but beware of horseflies, bitten 7 times ouch!
A memorial for a Wildlife Photographer who fell from this area whilst photographing Manx Shearwaters. These birds come to Rum every year some 7000 miles from their winter hibernation lands of Brazil.
A walk to the top - photo by author
Japanese Garden hidden at the bottom of the waterfall. Photo by author
This place puts island life in perspective, relaxed, rugged and very basic living with a time zone all of its own. The Kinloch Castle is the oddest thing ever, it looks more like a stately home than a castle. This edwardian castle was built by the Bulloughs family and where Sir George would entertain his guests in the deer stalking season. As it is an abandoned building we peered through the windows to see rooms filled with opulence and grandeur. So hard to believe that the family closed the doors and walked away from the building in 1957. Now owned by Scottish Natural Heritage but I believe the castles future is said to be unknown as the monies required to open the doors and maintain the building is massive. Such a shame!
Kinloch Castle- photo by author
Look at the Interior and Grand Piano
Another peak through the windows of Kinloch Castle.
We visited Canna next which in many ways the prettiest of the isles with its high basalt cliffs, has been in the hands of the National Trust for Scotland since 1981. Measuring just 5 by 1 miles, there is little to do but walk, watch birds and take in the scenery. There are a few idyllic moments which make memories that last a lifetime and foraging for seaweed here in Canna and having a cook off with friends is undoubtedly one of these.
Seaweed experiment -Photo by MC
Our delicious seaweed recipe experience made the beauty of this coastline even more special. Look at the pictures and decide for yourself.
Columns of Canna- photo by author
Punishment Tower - photo by author
MC at the beach - photo by author
Canna is a popular anchorage and a firm favourite with so many sailors. The cafe is one of the very best and the evening meals are out of this world. It has a well stocked honesty shop and great walks. I took MC ashore on my first solo dinghy ride at this anchorage, my landing and docking manoeuvres were abrupt but she lived to tell the tale!!! Even if I did leave her dangling off the side of La Contenta in the rain. Its an art this dinghy close quarters control, MC was athletically boarding her boat on the beam and of course me being a little trigger happy I shot off as soon as her foot left the dinghy. Ohps! Luckily MC is still talking to me and we had fun making arrangements between our boats on channel 6, cracking each other up with our play on words. The Mexican Train even came out to play. Canna with friends, has been another destination made in heaven.
Three Islands and all so different. Which do you like the best?
We are pushing on and heading for the outer hebrides. Now this I expect to be the best yet.
Take care my friends. Xxx
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